Welcome to Gran Turismo 6, the definitive PlayStation 3 racing simulation. Polyphony Digital's 2013 release refines the series' signature realism, challenging you to master a vast array of cars and tracks. From the moment you boot up, you'll be immersed in the pursuit of driving perfection, navigating intricate license tests and tackling diverse event types that demand precision and strategic tuning.
This guide is your key to conquering every aspect of GT6. We'll walk you through efficient credit farming methods, help you understand the nuances of different car types and tuning setups, and provide strategies for mastering braking techniques and dominating every race. Whether you're aiming for that elusive Gold Medal or simply want to explore the full depth of this acclaimed simulation, we've got you covered.
Tuning options
Learn how to fine-tune your Gran Turismo 6 cars for maximum performance. Explore tires, brakes, transmission, engine, and weight reduction to shave seconds off your lap times.
Alright, so you've been driving around in Gran Turismo 6 and you're ready to take things to the next level. That's where tuning comes in! Think of it like giving your car a custom makeover to make it way more competitive. You can tweak pretty much everything – power, speed, how it handles, even how much it weighs. Even small changes can make a big difference, so I really, really recommend messing around with these options on any car you plan to use seriously. It's how you unlock their full potential!
Now, some of these tuning options might seem a bit technical, maybe even aimed at real gearheads. Don't sweat it! I'll walk you through the ones I've found most useful and explain what they do. Just remember, not every car can get every upgrade, and some race-ready cars will already have a bunch of these parts installed right when you buy them.
Tires
This is a big one. Basically, the softer the tire compound, the more grip you'll get, and the better your braking will be. The downside? They wear out faster, so they're not ideal for those super long endurance races. You've got three main categories: Comfort, Sports, and Racing. Within each of those, you can choose between Hard, Medium, and Soft compounds. Generally, the higher the category and the softer the compound, the better your car will perform. But wait, there's more! There are also four special types: Rain, Intermediate, Dirt, and Snow tires. Rain and Intermediate are for when the weather gets nasty on tarmac tracks – Rain tires are for the really heavy stuff, and Intermediates are for when it's just a bit wet. Dirt and Snow tires are pretty self-explanatory; you can only use them on their matching off-road tracks.
Brakes
If you want to be able to brake later and harder than your opponents, you'll want to upgrade to racing brakes. This seriously cuts down your braking distance, giving you a sweet advantage for overtaking. Plus, braking less means you can carry more speed through corners, which will shave precious seconds off your lap times.
Customizable Transmission
This is another absolute must-have for shaving off those lap times. It lets you completely customize your gear ratios and, crucially, your car's top speed. While I don't usually mess with every single gear individually, I find it super useful to just adjust the top speed based on the track you're racing on and how much power your car is putting out.
Engine
The engine is where you can really boost your car's power. The main goal here is to increase that horsepower, which also bumps up your car's Performance Points (PP). You'll find a bunch of options to play with: engine tuning, exhaust, catalytic converter, ECU, Turbo Kits, Nitrous, Intake Manifold, and Exhaust Manifold. I personally don't bother with Nitrous because it's just a temporary boost, and I'd rather focus on improving the other parts. Also, keep in mind that Turbo Kits aren't available for every car. When you need to adjust a car's PP to meet competition requirements, these engine upgrades are usually your first stop.
Weight
It's all well and good having a powerful engine, but don't forget about weight! A lighter car is easier to throw around and will naturally go faster than a heavier car with the same amount of power. To shed some pounds, you can use the Weight Reduction upgrades (there are three stages to progressively make your car lighter), a Carbon Hood (which shaves off a little weight), and lighter Windows. Even a small reduction makes a difference, so I definitely recommend using all these options. And hey, you don't have to go through all three stages of Weight Reduction if you don't want to; you can jump straight to stage three if you prefer.
Basic explanations
Learn about the different track categories in Gran Turismo 6: World, Street, Original, and Dirt & Snow. Understand how tracks are divided into sectors and how weather/time affects your race.
Hey there! So, you're diving into Gran Turismo 6 and want to get a handle on how the tracks work? Awesome! Let's break it down so you know what you're getting into.
First off, GT6 has a massive collection of tracks – 105 in total! They're split into four main types:
- World: These are the real-deal permanent or semi-permanent circuits you'd see in professional racing. Think unforgettable places!
- Street: Get ready to race through cities all over the world, on circuits that are either real roads or designed to feel like they are.
- Original: These are the creative ones, built by the Gran Turismo team or even fans. Expect some unique layouts here!
- Dirt & Snow: For when you want to get a little sideways! These are off-road tracks, though sometimes they sneak in a bit of tarmac.
Now, most tracks are divided into three sections, or 'sectors,' just like in real FIA competitions. Some super short tracks might only have two, and the really long ones could have four or more. To keep things tidy in this guide, I'll usually describe each sector in its own paragraph. If a track has a bunch of variants that are mostly the same, I'll just point out the differences and where they happen to avoid repeating myself too much, especially if you're using the same car for all of them.
You'll also notice some tracks might mention separate entries for adjustable weather and time. Honestly, it's a bit of a quirk because most tracks let you tweak these things anyway. But it's worth noting because the time of day really matters – the sun can cast shadows that mess with your vision, and then there's night racing! Weather, of course, means rain, which changes everything. We've tested everything here using the standard time and weather settings for each track.
One last thing: I'm playing the PAL version, so all the stats like power, weight, distance, and speed are in the metric system. If you're more used to miles and pounds, here are the conversions so you can keep track:
- 1 CV = 0.99 HP (basically the same!)
- 1 kg = 2.2 lb
- 1 km = 0.62 miles (or 1 meter = 3.28 feet)
- 1 km/h = 0.62 mph
We'll be diving into the driving settings next, but for now, you've got the basics down!
Driving settings
Discover the best Gran Turismo 6 driving settings for a realistic and challenging experience. Learn how to adjust Transmission, Steering, TCS, ABS, and more.
Hey there! So, you're diving into Gran Turismo 6 and want to tweak those driving settings? Awesome! The game throws a ton of assists at you, and honestly, everyone's got their own vibe when they're behind the wheel. What works for one car might feel a bit off for another. I've found a sweet spot with my settings that really nails that realistic feel, making things tougher but way more rewarding. I use these same settings across all my cars, so let's get them dialed in!
Transmission: Manual
First up, I always go manual. Trust me, shifting your own gears feels way better and can actually shave seconds off your lap times. It gives you more control over the power delivery. Just a heads-up, electric cars in GT6 don't have a gearbox, so this option won't be available for them.
Active Steering: Disabled
This one's a bit of a trade-off. Active Steering is designed to keep your car stable by preventing oversteers, which is nice when you're learning. But here's the catch: it corrects *before* you even really feel the slide. This can mess with your rhythm because sometimes you *want* to feel that slight oversteer to control the car. If you're aiming for a more hands-on, skill-based drive, turning this off is the way to go.
Racing Line: Disabled
The racing line is like a digital instructor, showing you exactly where to brake and where to steer. It's super helpful when you're starting out, but it definitely pulls you out of the immersive experience. Plus, if you're battling another car or just slightly off-course, you can lose your reference point for braking or turning. The best part of GT6 is learning each track and car's unique rhythm, so I highly recommend ditching the line and discovering it yourself.
TCS (Traction Control System): Disabled
TCS is there to stop your wheels from spinning when you hit the gas, giving you a bit more grip, especially when cornering. However, it can also limit your acceleration out of turns, which is a real bummer. For most cars, I find disabling it gives me much better control. If you're driving something super powerful and finding it twitchy, setting TCS to 1 or 2 might be a good compromise, but give it a shot with it off first.
ASM (Active Stability Management): Disabled
ASM is basically a safety net to stop your car from spinning out. The game says it helps with stability, but I've noticed it can also slow you down a bit too much when you're pushing hard through corners. Fun fact: if you turn off ABS (which we'll get to next), ASM usually gets disabled automatically anyway.
ABS (Anti-lock Braking System): 1
ABS is do-or-die for braking. It stops your wheels from locking up completely, meaning you can keep more traction and brake more effectively. I keep mine set to 1 (out of 10). Honestly, even at 1, I've had my wheels lock up a few times while testing, so it's not a magic bullet, but it's a good middle ground for controlled braking without sacrificing too much feel.
Anti-drift: Disabled
This assist is marketed towards beginners, giving your tires extra grip to prevent drifting. Since you're reading this, you're already on your way to becoming a seasoned driver, so you won't need this! Turning it off lets you explore the car's handling dynamics much more freely.
Cars used
Discover the best cars for different tracks in Gran Turismo 6! Learn about the Nissan GT-R, Ford RS200, a special kart, and the Audi Pikes Peak for optimal performance.
Hey there! So, you're wondering which cars are best for tackling all the different tracks in Gran Turismo 6? I've put together a quick rundown of the four cars I found most useful during my playthrough. Each one is suited for specific types of racing, so picking the right one can make a huge difference!
Here are the cars I used and why:
- Nissan GT-R Nismo ‘14: My go-to for fast tracks.
- Ford RS200 ‘85: A more balanced option for general use.
- Gran Turismo Racing Kart 125 shifter: Perfect for tight, twisty circuits and kart-specific events.
- Audi Sport quattro S1 Pikes Peak ‘87: My choice for off-road racing.
Nissan GT-R Nismo ‘14
Specs:
- Power: 800 CV
- Weight: 1378 kg
- Drivetrain: 4WD
- PP: 638
- Tires: Racing Soft
- Brakes: Racing
- Engine: Stage 3
- Exhaust: Semi-racing
- Intake: Sports intake manifold
- Catalytic Converter: Sports
- Exhaust manifold
- Weight Reduction: Stage 3
- Hood: Carbon (Body Color)
- Windows: Light
- Transmission: Customizable (six speed gearbox)
This car is seriously quick thanks to its double-clutch gearbox, which means super-fast gear shifts and awesome acceleration. Just a heads-up, though – it can be a bit tricky to handle and has a tendency to flip over if you're not careful. It's one of only two road cars with that speedy gearbox!
Ford RS200 ‘85
Specs:
- Power: 388 CV
- Weight: 1092 kg
- Drivetrain: 4WD
- PP: 499
- Tires: Sports Hard
- Brakes: Racing
- Exhaust: Racing
- Catalytic Converter: Sports
- Turbo: High RPM Range
- Weight Reduction: Stage 3
- Hood: Carbon (Body Color)
- Transmission: Customizable (five speed gearbox)
If the GT-R is too much, this RS200 is a great alternative. It's powerful but much more manageable. It does tend to oversteer a bit more than you might expect for an AWD car, but that's understandable given its rally car origins. I've kept this one under 500 PP because a lot of seasonal events have that limit. I could tune it up more, but I'm used to it this way.
Gran Turismo Racing Kart 125 shifter
Specs:
- Power: 50 CV
- Weight: 80 kg
- PP: 582
- Transmission: Customizable (six speed gearbox)
This kart is a beast on the smaller, twistier tracks. It's the most powerful kart available and the only one with a gearbox, making it super agile. Since it sits so low to the ground, it doesn't really benefit from cutting curbs like road cars do.
Audi Sport quattro S1 Pikes Peak ‘87
Specs:
- Power: 619 CV
- Weight: 1000 kg
- PP: 638
- Turbo: High RPM Range
- Transmission: Customizable (six speed gearbox)
For all your off-road adventures, this Audi is the one. It’s got a great balance of power and lightness, making it better than your average rally car but not as wild as some Group B machines. It’s interesting that it has the same PP rating as the GT-R!
Similar guides you might like
100% Human-Written. Community Verified. Learn how Ludo.guide verifies content